Yes, I went back to Kakadu, being at one with the early morning light on the sandstone cliffs of Burrungkuy / Nourlangie. Watching the sun move up the sky and illuminating that distinctive tropical light-green foliage of the slopes and lowlands. Whispering ‘thank you’, high up on the escarpment.
In 2020 I had to get over my postponed overseas trip. Then when the Northern Territory visit was imminent, and Dan was up for it too, every day I sent out hopeful vibes. Would Adelaide become a coronavirus hotspot preventing us from entering the NT for a holiday? What if I get a sore throat just before we travel and can’t go? Fortunately, it went ahead and saw me happily announcing ‘It’s warm!’ repeatedly as we walked out of Darwin airport, a bit crazy. Dan was like, ‘I don’t know this person!’
Linda and Darren made us feel very welcome at their new home in Howard Springs, and Linda’s dad Barrie and his partner Sharon had arrived from the south as well. We gathered for Linda’s 50th birthday dinner, or ‘COVID Cracker Half Century!’
In great company, we spent time in their tropical garden. Linda showed us George the green tree frog who made an appearance then slept close to the activity on the verandah. Arthur the Darwin children’s python ate a rat for the first time in 5 months, then went to hibernate in the back of his enclosure. Swimming in their little pool surrounded by a rockery, tropical palms and wide-leaved cigar plants was idyllic and fun. Dan and I made a whirlpool one time. Or just paddling my feet and throwing the ball for kelpies Trooper and Tinker.
George the tree frog
A bush curlew appeared on the lawn from the darkness. ‘You’re welcome here little one!’ Linda called out to the gangly bird with big eyes. Making those calls in the night that confirm you’re in the tropics.
Return to Kakadu
Ah, the mighty World Heritage listed Kakadu National Park. We stayed at the Aurora Kakadu Lodge in Jabiru, with its generous-sized shady pool. On the way we stopped at the Mary River National Park for the short Billabong Walk, seeing wallabies but thankfully no crocodiles. Then we detoured to the Couzens Lookout where the river below was beautiful with pink flowering water lilies.
My ability to become a morning person on holidays kicked in and we were in the Burrungkuy / Nourlangie car park a few minutes after 7am. Needing to beat the heat as much as possible. Friends at Linda’s birthday dinner said the build-up seems to be starting early so it was humid too.
The first thing was to walk past the Aboriginal rock art sites in the cool early morning. Past Namondjok,, Barrginj and lightning man Namarrgon, the place all to ourselves. Everything silent and still except for birdsong. We met the junction to start up the steep slope, which marked the start of the Barrk Sandstone Walk. All 12 kilometres of it! The walk is named after the male black wallaroo, Barrk being the Bininj name – we didn’t see one though.
Our party of three, Linda, Dan and I, climbed steadily up the hill and admired the rock formations and variety of plants. A creek line showed debris from the wet season when you wouldn’t attempt this hike. Linda said the track would be overgrown by the jungle and slippery with waterfalls. Not that it is a formed track, as the brochure advised. You follow the orange arrow markers.
After more climbing, negotiating rocks and crossing a void (a tiny fear-free void), we reached that special view from way up high on the escarpment. This was still on the rock art side of the Burrungkuy massif, stone country outlier. My heart filled with gratitude, being able to take a trip to natural greatness in the time of the COVID-19 pandemic. The morning light was gentle on the orange and grey rocky expanse. Then in minutes we traversed the pass, along a plateau recently control burned by the looks.
This section was blackened with green shoots; we figured the Traditional Owners and rangers burn to reduce the fuel and manage the country. The sandstone was all around us, wonderful formations you want to touch. Therapeutic rock touching. We stopped a short while to eat our bars and Linda’s oaty banana bread.
The descent to the flats saw us weaving through fairyland rocks, greenery despite the burns and new views of the plains on the north side. It was a little steep and with loose rocks but nothing too hard. Just keep an eye out for the markers so as not to get lost.
I was feeling the heat. This section was sunny and the 2.5 litres of chilled water with hydration salts kept me well. Big thanks to Linda for lending me her tank hydration bladder and putting ice in – it kept my back cool as well as the water.
We reached the bottom and cruised along open woodland which provided mottled shade. The track led to Nanguluwur where we enjoyed a shady break, me lying on the boardwalk and eating and drinking to help recovery from the heat. I had nice chats with Dan and Linda while we surprised visitors (there was no other car at the Nanguluwur car park!) I studied the detail of the Namandi spirits and other beings in this gallery, this library.
We continued along more flats except for one stony rise and descent, beautiful sandstone pillars and pandanus around us. Linda walked up to stone walls to look for art. We saw a wallaby head and a woman – the sense of discovery here was awesome! We also stumbled upon a family of ground-dwelling birds quickly scattering, quails maybe.
Close to the end I was very hot and daydreaming while my companions chatted ahead of me. Red-tailed black cockatoos called out to each other, the sunlight catching their red feathers in flight. The sandstone cliffs were towering to our left and I caught myself making wise old faces from their shapes. Linda found Kakadu plums to share – they were sour but in a good way and rich in vitamin C.
Huzzah, the toilet block came into view 5 hours and 45 minutes since we began, including breaks. My face as red as a tomato, maybe I didn’t drink enough. Bureau of Meteorology weather observations were 32 degrees Celsius and 33% humidity at Jabiru.
A wonderful, powerful sense of achievement came to me on completing this hot and awesome hike.
A big thank you to Linda and to Dan, and to the Bininj / Mungguy Traditional Owners for enabling me to realise this beautiful stone country place in the Top End. And the Aurora Kakadu Lodge shady swim afterwards was refreshing bliss.
Maguk magic
The next morning Dan and I visited Ubirr again because its views and rock art are amazing. Then at Maguk waterfall and plunge pool, still in Kakadu, it was wonderful to swim and float on our backs while gazing up at the sandstone cliffs surrounding us on three sides. It was worth the corrugated dirt road in, and I was reassured by Maguk being a crocodile management zone with a very low risk of coming across salties. I saw yellow wildflowers and zippy blue or red dragonflies – little helicopters! We swam all the way to the waterfall and its ferny gully, and then Dan liked the idea of deep-water soloing. On one side the cliffs were dark and we caught a glimpse of a sleeping bat’s head 😊
The flat tyre happened near Cooinda but out of phone range. Thank goodness Dan changed the tyre like a boss while I kept track of the wheel nuts. It was still 35 degrees at 5pm! We rolled into Darwin just before 9pm, travel weary and hungry but grateful that we did not have to deal with a second flat tyre.
Good omen for Litchfield
A couple of days later our Barrk trio set off in Linda’s Ranger for Litchfield National Park. On the road we happened upon a jabiru, shining with its deep green plumage and flying in line with our direction. A good omen, we agreed.
The day went swimmingly! We walked among the historic ruins of the Bamboo Creek tin mine and the secluded campsites and pools of Walker Creek. We also tackled the spanking hot Cascades hike and visited Curtain Falls and the iconic Wangi Falls.
Think of swimming when you think of Litchfield. Linda knows Litchfield well and most of our chosen spots were slightly off the beaten track. Getting to The Cascades involved a sunny hill climb. When we arrived, the waterway provided rocky seats with water-powered shoulder massages. Arrgh we encountered leeches! False alarm, just tiny dark wrigglers. Anyway, all the other pools we visited we larger and deeper. Curtain Falls was cooling, with the waterfall shower and light reflections dancing on the rocks. Idyllic. About eight of us humans stopped there at the time – how lucky were we?
Dan and I at The Cascades
Some had European accents. It was food for thought that some people might be seeing out the pandemic in Australia if their visas allow them to. Away from their families but in a beautiful Territory place. Down from Curtain Falls we hiked the shady forested creek line and watched mysterious bubbles rise from the waters.
Then to Wangi for year-round falls into an epic pool, but first to walk the loop up around the escarpment to the music of flying foxes and the feeling of hot sun on top. A side waterfall provided a refreshing splash, surrounded by butterflies. We met Barrie and Sharon back at the gigantic pool – it was really nice to see them again and Sharon lent me her swimming noodle. I lounged back into it and totally chilled out, late in the day. Just soaking in the natural rocky bushy surrounds as I floated. Then it was time to drive back to Darwin.
Thank you Northern Territory for allowing me to realise my hopes for an outdoorsy holiday during COVID-19. It means a great deal to me.
I acknowledge the traditional owners of the lands we visited: Larrakia, Bininj, Mungguy, Koongurrukun, Mak Mak Marranunggu, Werat and Warray, and honour their Elders past, present and emerging.
Sources:
Kakadu National Park including Barrk Sandstone Walk
https://parksaustralia.gov.au/kakadu/
https://parksaustralia.gov.au/kakadu/do/walks/barrk-sandstone-walk/
Litchfield National Park
https://nt.gov.au/leisure/parks-reserves/find-a-park/find-a-park-to-visit/litchfield-national-park
https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-nc-sa/4.0/
